SHOAL BAY – the land of my ancestors. Not many have heard about this pretty little village spread linearly in the suburbs of our island territory. The Reverend who brought my people from Myanmar and settled them in the village called it ‘Canaan’ which means a land where milk and honey flows. Take a leisure drive from Bambooflat (a jetty on the opposite of Port Blair) on the road that point towards the less crowded place. As you cross Wimberligunj (the town’s market place), you will realize that the breeze that is gently caressing your cheeks right now is very different from where you came. Its chillness won’t dry your skin or mess up your mane. If you are on a two – wheeler, you wouldn’t want to pillion. You’ll want to feel the zephyr first hand as it softly plays with your hair. And if you are on a four wheeler, you’ll want to take the backseat, roll the windows down, hang your head and limbs out of the window like a happy puppy and feel the rustling padauk forest sing lullabies to the dark mist – drenched slithery road.
As you pass by Shoal Bay Camp No. 8, fresh sun – kissed fields peek out of the landscape every now and then. You don’t want to drive anymore. You just want to jump out of your car and sink your feet into the rich chocolaty soil in the field. I say, ‘not yet, my friend. Drive on!’
Shoal Bay is divided into 19 camps. They are called camps because after independence when people (the freedom fighters released from the Cellular Jail and settlers like us) were allotted plots in the dense tropical jungle, they obviously camped :P The Government numbered the camps to keep track. Well they did create clearings, eco-friendly huts and kachha roads later…but the name remained as a reminder of their humble beginnings.
The next milestone reads Shoal Bay Camp No. 9. The same view osculates your eyes. Just that; little concrete cutely painted houses emerge from the green canopy every now and then. The humble effort of the villagers trying hard at the baby steps towards urbanization spills a ghost of a smile on your face. As you drive on, you’ll reach Shoal Bay Camp No. 10. Now you park your car. Well, for no particular reason; just that my Great Grandma lives here. The tiny semi eco friendly house is a welcome sight after a long drive. You can go in if you want to. My folks are a friendly lot. When the Reverend nicknamed the village ‘Canaan’, he knew what he was talking about. Take a sip of the naturally cold water from a humble aluminium tumbler that my Great Grandma would offer you. You’ll understand what I am telling you about. Its earthly chill and natural sweetness instantly quenches your thirst yet leaving you craving for more. Relaxed much? Now hop into your car before my ninety year old great grandma starts narrating you tales of her life in Burma. It is a culturally rich interesting chronicle though. I grew up listening to it intently. You can come in some other time to hear the story. Just enjoy the beauty for now. Driving ahead, you’ll cross the ancient burial ground and the Methodist Church of the Burma Indian Settlers. It is quite a sight if you would drive by during Christmas. The whole village throngs to the tinselly dressed Church singing soothing carols. Moving on…you got to drive much further until you reach the end of the pucca road. Now you drive through the thick forest. Brace yourselves! You are in for a bumpy ride. Only experienced drivers, drive ahead. No, don’t pluck anything! It is our forest. I don’t want to go preachy on you but if you touch anything because it is ‘Oh-so-beautiful’, I might change my mind. There! There! Hold on to something. I told you it is going to be a very bumpy ride. Don’t worry, the road construction is underway. Thanks to our Lieutenant Governor, we at least have a kachha road.
Now slowly look around…let the greenery around you imbue serenity into your soul. Close your eyes and revel in the mellow melody of the wild birds…now will be a good time to daydream, you know. After a good hour or so, open your eyes. You have reached the verge of the village i.e. Shoal Bay Camp No. 19. The cool ocean invites your tired feet with open arms. Kick back your shoes and dive right in. A cold dip on a warm sunny day is always refreshing. You wouldn’t want to leave the sea. But all the splashing and riding the waves will make your tummy grumble violently. Pat yourself dry and lazily flump on the fresh dry rug that your mom has spread under the huge tree. Now savour the delicious picnic lunch with your family being thankful for the beautiful life you have been endowed with. I promise, you will call it ‘the best day of your life’ for many years to come.
~ Ar. Jency John
The Great Granddaughter of Late Shri. Joseph (The Chaudhry of Shoal Bay)
